The Million Star Motel

Throw your swag down and be captivated as you gaze up at the twinkling roof of The Million Star Motel

Marco Gliori

This is the transcript from Season 2, Episode 3 of the Outdoors is my Therapy Podcast with my friend Marco Gliori.

The Million Star Motel

Kathryn: Hello and welcome back to the Outdoors is my Therapy podcast. I’m your host Kathryn Walton. This is Series 2 and each week you’ll get to meet one of my friends who’ll share what inspires them about the outdoors. Each episode is just a few minutes long, like a little snack of information and inspiration that feeds your mind and your heart and reconnects you with the therapeutic benefits of the outdoor world.

Kathryn: Do you ever go outside at nighttime and look up at the stars? Can you see the stars where you live? Or is there too much light from the city life? And when you do look up at the night sky, what do you think about? How do you feel? I live in the bush quite a long way from town and city lights, and unless the moon is full or there’s cloud in the sky, I get a pretty good view of the night sky some of our visitors have marveled at just how many stars they can see when they come to visit us. So many more than what they can see from their city homes. So I feel incredibly grateful for where I live and for myself, I have a mixture of feelings when I look up at the stars. Definitely a bit of fear and curiosity all at the same time. I mean, how does the world even keep spinning around? How long have the stars and the planets, how long have they been there and really are they stars that I’m seeing? Are they planets or are they something else? What’s their history and what’s the future of everything I can see when I look up at the night sky? So a bit of fear and a bit of curiosity, but I also feel very grounded looking up at the night sky. It reminds me a bit of the final scenes in the Men in Black movies where the camera zooms out revealing worlds within worlds. And as Will Smith’s character, Jay says they need to know that the world is bigger than them. So looking up at the night sky, it often puts my problems in perspective. Something that felt so huge and consuming becomes a mere speck in the scheme of things, considering the size and the age of the world that we live in, it helps me to take things a little bit more lightly than I otherwise would. Watching the orange glow of the sun setting and then spending some time outside in the dark away from artificial lighting and devices that emit blue light, that also helps your brain and your body to wind down after a day of activity. So you begin to feel tired and your body and your brain is getting ready for sleep. A lot of people do report that their sleep and their energy levels improve significantly during camping holidays, and this exposure to those natural rhythms of light and dark is one of the main reasons. So here’s a tip for an all natural strategy to improve your sleep. Get outside first thing in the morning for at least a few minutes of natural sunlight. That helps to set your body clock and then as the evening approaches, watch the sun setting and spend a bit more time outside after that, looking up at the stars and the moon. But that’s enough from me for today. Today on the podcast, you are going to hear from my friend Marco Gliori, who has an absolute gift for words. Marco lives in the rural Southern Downs Region of Southern Queensland like myself. Today, he shares some of his bush verse with us, “The Million Stars Motel” and what inspired him to write this poem. Marco also chats about his favourite ways to connect with nature. So meet my friend Marco.

Marco: When the road is long and dusty and the sunset’s far off gaze, steers the weary workers home again, Then I, like all the strays, Look out on the far horizon for the travelers next motel, Some with carpet soft as spinifex, And bright pink doors as well. Rated by the stars I find them, But the slickest I must tell, Is my swag beneath the heavens, In the Million Star Motel. In the Million Star Motel, My room will always be reserved, When the neon lights that beckon, Flash like miracles preserved. Nothing fancy in the bathroom, Precious little but the view, By the incandescent campfire, Sip the billy’s bubbling brew, Shelve your finest crystal glasses, mate, They cannot cast a spell, Like the sparkle from the ceiling, In the Million Star Motel. Cabins creak upon the railway, And their rhythm shunts my mood, Trucks are hurtling down the highway, Laden down with frozen food, Foreign cars are blinding kangaroos, While searching for respite, Warm and cozy, Somewhere civilized to spend another night. I’d like to wave them over, But they’d think like bloody hell, Some are fearful of the bedmates, In the Million Star Motel. Frogs that grunt and gloat about you, Fish tails slapping by the moon, Thumping wallabies now scratching, For the green pick coming soon. Things that sting you, Bugs that bite you, Fearsome howling on the rise, Stuff that tunes your basic instincts, Prehistoric lullabies. And then when deep sleep caresses you, Your heart can’t help but swell, As the roof illuminates you, In the Million Star Motel. And tomorrow when I wake refreshed, To trek another mile, Pray contentment fills my fuel tank, And the sun reflects my smile, And a cool breeze breeds momentum, As I tell another friend, I’ve found a fine establishment, I’m pleased to recommend. Where ideals can mold a future, And your mind clears like a bell, As you buzz into reception, At the Million Star Motel. Plant the seeds of resurrection folks, What a sweet concept to sell, Healing pleasures, Free to dreamers, In the Million Star Motel.

Kathryn: I love it Marco. What inspired you to write that poem?

Marco: Two things. First of all, my dad. he’d been in a very stressful situation. For many years, he isolated himself. This is a man suffering deep emotional turmoil and never had any mates to talk to about it. He isolated himself from his family and he became very stressful to live with, but I remember looking out into the backyard of our little house in the avenue where we lived and I saw him standing in the backyard with his Roll Your Own cigarette in his mouth, just looking up at the stars and talking to himself. And I don’t know what he was thinking, but I often thought back on the times, the most treasured times we had were, uh, by a campfire at Leslie Dam fishing, um, around the barbecue sitting in the backyard when we could actually get him to laugh and celebrate life and realise that all his family loved him and all the help that he needed, uh, to find some sanity was right there. And he just didn’t seem to take those opportunities and died very young at the age of 52. So I made sure that I planned it in myself, that expectation that I would never not do something that I would give up a job at the drop of a hat if I had to. I would walk off the edge of a commitment and go and find a beach or a bit of bush somewhere, or a mate at a pub, or a friend with a cup of tea on a verandah and I would find someone to talk to. Uh, and that’s what my father gave me. I saw that I never seen anyone as lonely, but I often thought about that, how he was looking up at the stars and, and dreaming about all his opportunities and, and what he’d given away by coming out as the only one of his family to do so from Italy and he never spoke to us about it. So we still have all these unanswered questions. Many years later, and, uh, just before I wrote this poem, I’m watching a television program. It was a travel program and one of the presenters was walking through a very poor part of India, down dirt roads. And, uh, it was a, it was a village made up of mud brick and sandstone houses with no windows and shops and little hotels. And she paused talking to this one bloke because he was perched in the doorway waiting to invite people into what looked like just a mud brick type of house. And she says, “Is this a motel?” And he said, “Yes, this is a very good motel.” “Is it a really good motel? I don’t see much to do in there.” He said, “Well, you have your one star motel. You look around, he says, this is the Million Star Motel.” And it was just such a beautiful way to look at something very basic, but that’s all you needed, he was saying, to have a good time. And no, I never forget that.

Kathryn: What’s your favourite way to connect with nature?

Marco: Just put on your shoes and walk out there. And I say shoes because there’s too many prickles to go bare feet. Otherwise I would, but when I’m on the beach, yeah, bare feet up and down the beach. Always. When I go to the Sunshine Coast, I always walk up Mount Coolum or find a mountain walk to go to. Here, Girraween, Main Range National Park. Uh, Leslie Dam, sometimes I’ll just go there and walk up and down the stairs and, and round the dam itself and, uh, to get some exercise. But I think just walking with, uh, no sound bites and I can I say Kathryn, I was out at Winton recently doing a lot of walking and when Julie and I walk, we don’t walk together. Uh, unless we’re doing a mountain walk, but out at Winton, she was always walking around with a headset in and what she was listening to was your podcast. So, uh,

Kathryn: [laughing]

Marco: When I’d, uh, when I started listening to them, I was telling Julie about you and the podcast. She says, “I know I’ve got all her podcasts. What do you think I was listening to at Winton when I was walking around the streets out there?” And I’d go bush, but I, I, I love the highway. Um, Yeah, I love the highways and, and the bush and the road less traveled. So once I’ve done a walk somewhere once or twice, I’m looking for something different. So I’m reintroducing myself and my daughters to all the Main Range walks up there and the Great Divide and, uh, uh, which we all did as kids. We all did them in, in our early adulthood. And for me, it’s lovely to get back up there now. Place is looking great.

Kathryn: And things always change don’t they, out there? Different seasons, different climatic conditions, different times of the day. Yeah, just always so different. Always something new to see.

Kathryn: Thanks for tuning in to the Outdoors is my Therapy podcast. We hope you feel inspired to connect with the outdoors no matter how big or small your adventures might be. If you’re looking for more inspiration or you’d like to connect with others in the Outdoors is my Therapy community, check the show notes for all the links.

You can listen to the episode “The Million Star Motel” here:

You can also hear Marco Gliori sharing inspiration about building community through the arts and environment on the Speak Out Loud: Stories of Strength podcast here:

Where to go walking in the Southern Downs

Whether you’re a visitor or a local, there are plenty of choices when it comes to walking in the Southern Downs. The region is about 1 ½ to 2 hours south west of Brisbane in Queensland. The two main urban centres are Warwick and Stanthorpe, with dozens of smaller rural towns and villages across the region.

This post is an overview of just some of the many walks you can choose from. Keep an eye out for future posts that will give you heaps more detail on a selection of the bushwalks and mountain bike trails in the region like the one I wrote last year on Bushwalking in Goomburra, Main Range National Park.

Thinking about taking up hiking? My blog post How To Get Started Bushwalking will get you going!

Walks in and around Warwick

Queen’s Park River Walk

Condamine River winds through parkland
Walking in the Southern Downs – the beautiful River Walk in Warwick

The Southern Downs region promotes 5 different urban walks close to the Warwick CBD which you can follow along on this map. The popular River Walk at Queen’s Park has recently been extended past Hamilton Oval in the direction of Gillam Park. The River Walk is also suitable for bicycles, scooters, prams and wheelchairs with easy access to toilet facilities and picnic tables. There’s plenty of shade and a fenced off-leash area for dogs.

Walks in and around Stanthorpe

Quart Pot Creek

Quart Pot Creek is an absolute gem in the centre of Stanthorpe flanked by parklands on both banks with extensive walking and cycling paths, gardens, picnic tables, toilets and play equipment. You can access this beautiful green belt from many points along its length including Apex Park, Lions Park, Heritage Park and from the Stanthorpe Visitor Information Centre.

Mt Marlay

Mt Marlay is a small bushland reserve in the middle of Stanthorpe, popular for many years with locals on their regular walking routes. There are a couple of short, marked walking tracks on Mt Marlay which you can see on the map below. The regional council and the Southern Downs Mountain Bike Club have recently begun developing a small network of mountain bike trails here which are clearly marked so that you don’t accidentally wander off the dedicated walking tracks onto the mountain bike tracks.

walking in the southern downs - Mt Marlay map
Walking and MTB trails at Mt Marlay, Stanthorpe

Donnelly’s Castle

Donnelly’s Castle  is about a 20km drive to the north west of Stanthorpe. Access is from Castle Lane which comes off Donnelly’s Castle Road at Pozieres. Donnelly’s Castle is a natural formation of the locally occurring granite rocks and boulders which apparently served as a fabulous hideout for the bushranger known as Thunderbolt. You can really imagine the truth of this legend when you scramble up, around and through the rocks and peer into the distance from the lookout at the top. Kids and adults alike are bound to have a heap of fun here exploring the ‘castle’. I’d recommend close supervision of young children and keeping a keen eye out for snakes. Toilet facilities and picnic tables are available.

Girraween National Park

Rocky expanse of Girraween National Park
Walking in the Southern Downs is stunning at Girraween National Park

Girraween is about a half hour drive south of Stanthorpe. This unique national park is a landscape of stark contrasts. Girraween is famous for its abundant wildflowers and its rugged granite outcrops. The national park is also home to an extensive variety of birds, kangaroos, frogs, reptiles and other wildlife and is a popular place for day visitors and campers. As I write this article in January 2020, the camp grounds have been closed for some time due to ongoing drought, and the area has suffered from recent bushfires. As with all natural environments, Girraween changes with the seasons and I’ve loved watching the cycles of regeneration here over many years. There are signed bushwalks at Girraween ranging from 280metres to 11kms. Or simply explore the granite rock pools near the day use area. Toilet facilities, picnic tables and BBQs available.

You can read more about Girraween in my Great Backpacking Adventures series.

Sundown National Park

Sundown National Park rocky gorge
A rocky gorge at Sundown National Park

Sundown National Park can be accessed by most conventional vehicles from the south near Glenlyon Dam, or from the north off Texas Road and onto Nundubbermere Road. A third access point is along Sundown Road via Ballandean however once at the National Park the tracks become rough and steep so a 4WD is recommended along here. Sundown has several walks of varying lengths and difficulty as well as some camping areas. Look at the Sundown National Park website to plan your trip before heading out there as it is more remote than other regional parks with fewer facilities.

Walks in and around Allora and Goomburra

Dalrymple Creek Park

Dalrymple Creek Park is a shady park along the banks of Dalrymple Creek in Allora. The walking trail leads you along the banks of the creek with toilet facilities, picnic tables, BBQs, and play equipment along the way.

Goomburra Section, Main Range National Park

Waterhole in Goomburra National park
The Cascades walk in Goomburra National Park

The Goomburra section of Main Range National Park is about 40kms east of Allora. Sections of the road into the National Park are unpaved and at times can be difficult for low clearance vehicles to navigate. After rain there can be several water crossings into the entrance of the park. A day use area and camping sites are available within the National Park as well as toilets and a variety of walking tracks that begin at the camping and day use areas, as well as other walking tracks that can be accessed from Lookout Road. Goomburra walks range from less than a kilometre to 12 kilometres long. All the walks are on unpaved surfaces and can include steep sections, natural obstacles (eg tree roots) and creek crossings. Spectacular views of the surrounding valleys and ranges can be seen from the high points of some of the walks.

Walks in and around Killarney

Queen Mary Falls, Main Range National Park

Queen Mary Falls
Queen Mary Falls in Main Range National Park

Queen Mary Falls is about 45kms east of Warwick. It offers a beautiful day use area with car parking, picnic tables, toilets, water and BBQs as well as a small kiosk across the road.  The walk to The Falls is a 2 km circuit through the forest to the bottom of the Falls and back up again. The walk is steep in places, has stairs and is not suitable for prams or wheelchairs. The causeway at the bottom can be slippery.

If you’re looking for a shorter walk that’s suitable for prams, wander along to the two lookouts on either side of the Falls just a couple of hundred metres from the car park.

Browns Falls

Browns Falls is accessed from Spring Creek Road as you travel from Killarney towards Queen Mary Falls. Park your vehicle at Brown Falls Park where there is play equipment, picnic tables, BBQs and toilet facilities. Follow the track under the road and along the watercourse in an easterly direction for about 600 metres. The track is not well defined in places and you will need to scramble or rock hop along the watercourse. Take care as it can be very slippery when wet. The falls plunge into a beautiful waterhole surrounded by rock.

Walks near Maryvale

Cunningham’s Gap Section, Main Range National Park

Cunningham’s Gap is at the top of the Range on the Cunningham Highway about 90 minutes south west of Brisbane or 45 minutes east of Warwick. The closest town in the region is Maryvale only 15 minutes on the western side of the range.

There are two main access point to the walks in this section of the National park. At the top of the range known as “The Gap” there is a small car park and toilet facilities on the northern side of the highway with additional limited parking along the southern side of the highway. If you are crossing the highway to access the facilities or the walks on the other side, take great care and follow any signage that has been placed there for your safety as this is a very busy highway. Most of the walks are accessed from the northern side of the highway.

Kathryn looks amazed and wide-eyed at the rainforest in Main Range National Park
The rainforest in the Cunningham’s Gap section of Main Range National Park is stunning!

The alternative place to access The Gap walking tracks (and my personal favourite because it’s off the highway!) is via the West Gap Creek picnic area on the western side of The Gap. From Warwick, West Gap Creek picnic area is on your left just past “Stacey’s at the Gap” a couple of kilometres before you reach the The Gap. There are two small car parking areas, an extensive grassy picnic area, toilets, water, picnic tables and access to the Box Forest Walking Track which takes you about 2.5 kilometres through rainforest uphill to The Gap and the other walks. Walks here range from 1.6 kms to 12 kms long with varying levels of difficulty. Once again, check the National Parks site if you intend visiting as there were extensive bushfires through the Park in late 2019 resulting in closures of most walks throughout Main Range.

Some things to remember when walking in the Southern Downs!

There are simply SO MANY wonderful choices when it comes to walking in the Southern Downs. With so much natural beauty surrounded by a rural landscape, it’s the perfect place to relax and unwind. But safety always comes first! Here are a few reminders to help you have a truly fabulous time whilst minimising risks:

  • Always prepare by doing your research before leaving home
  • Check the National Parks ALERTS web page for closures and other advice, or contact the Rangers at the Park you plan to visit
  • Take plenty of drinking water and food for everyone in your walking group as drinking water may not be available
  • Wear comfortable closed shoes suitable for the terrain
  • Protect yourself from the sun
  • Follow signage and advice from authorities such as staying on track and taking all your rubbish with you
  • Be First Aid aware and be well prepared including knowing how to manage snake risk and other injuries
  • Mobile service may not be reliable in all areas
  • Let someone know where you are going and what time you expect to be back
  • Make sure you have plenty of fuel in your vehicle – some parks like Sundown National Park are a long way from fuel stations

For more information about walking in the Southern Downs

For more information about the parklands across the Southern Downs region, go to the Southern Downs Regional Council website or check with the Visitor Information Centres or the many tourism operators.

Let me know your favourite places and spaces for walking in the Southern Downs and further afield! And join us over on our community Facebook Group Outdoors is my Therapy where you can share ideas and inspiration no matter where you live or how you love to spend your time outside!

Daisy Spoke

Discovering mountain biking as life’s ultimate parallel universe in her middle age, Kathryn Walton shares information and reflections in ‘Daisy Spoke’ that inform, inspire and empower women to a healthy and active lifestyle.

Bushwalking in Goomburra, Main Range National Park

Regardless of your level of fitness there are plenty of options for bushwalking in the Goomburra section of Main Range National Park on the Southern Downs. As with many National Parks, it is a privilege to be able to share in the natural wonders and history of the area. There are varying stories about the meaning of the word “Goomburra” taken from the local Aboriginal language. The European history of the Darling Downs area relates to transport routes between the east and west, the logging industry, and frequently violent conflict with the Traditional Custodians of the land.

About Main Range National Park

Main Range National Park covers over 30 000 hectares in the Gondwana Rainforests of Australia World Heritage Area in south east Queensland. With an amazing diversity of plants and animals and unique terrain, Main Range is a popular place for people to picnic, bushwalk, camp and venture into the more remote areas of the Park.

Main Range National Park is divided into 3 sections including Queens Mary Falls, Cunningham’s Gap, and Goomburra. Let’s take a closer look at the Goomburra section. 

Are you new to bushwalking? Read some tips and hints on how to get started bushwalking.

Goomburra Section

bushwalking Goomburra 3
Explore the wide variety of habitats when you go bushwalking in Goomburra

The Goomburra section of Main Range National Park is about 170kms south west of Brisbane by road or about 55kms north east of Warwick. The Park offers spectacular scenery with rugged mountains, scenic lookouts, open dry forest, and rainforest. The Park habitats provide shelter to a variety of Australian flora and fauna including some endangered species.

Accommodation

Camp sites with composting toilets are provided in this section of the Park, and other private camp grounds and accommodation options are located nearby.

Access

Hidden away from the highway, access to the Goomburra section of the Park is along Inverramsay Road. Travelling along here reminds you of where your food comes from. The road meanders along the beautiful Goomburra Valley, home to grazing, dairying, vegetable and crop farms, as well as recreational enterprises such as 4WD parks and private campgrounds – very popular destinations for long weekends and school holidays.

The final approach to the Park is unfenced and unpaved so be aware of cattle wandering across the road. At times you may need a high clearance vehicle to navigate the unpaved sections. After rain there can be several water crossings as you enter the Park.

Kurrajong Picnic Area is on your left near the intersection with Lookout Road and a nearby information sign. Driving straight ahead you’ll discover two campgrounds with toilets and access to some of the walks from the car park where the road terminates.

Driving along Lookout Road you’ll wind your way up a narrow unpaved road which gives access to more walking tracks.

Bushwalking Tracks

There is a variety of walking tracks in the Park ranging from short and easy walks to steeper and more

bushwalking in Goomburra 1
Rock pool on The Cascades track

challenging half-day walks.

Dalrymple Circuit (1.2kms return) is a Class 3 walk with interpretative signs which winds through the forest and creeks. This walk is suitable for families or anyone looking for a short walk that gives you a taste of what Goomburra has to offer.

Cascades Circuit (6.5kms return) is a Class 4 track that’s a bit longer and more challenging. Wind your way up through the rainforest crossing the creek numerous times to sit by the rocky pools at the upper reaches.

The Ridge Track (5kms return) is a Class 4 track that takes you through quite steep terrain with dry forest and rainforest. Take care on the steep fire road and walking tracks as the gravel can be quite slippery whichever direction you go.

North Branch Track (7kms return) is a Class 4 track that begins off Lookout Drive near the Kurrajong

bushwalking Goomburra 2
Lush ferns growing on the Ridge Walk track

picnic area. From the picnic area, walk to the other side of Lookout Drive and cross the creek. On your left you’ll see the start of the North Branch Track which takes you through mostly dry open forest until it reaches the edge of the rainforest which is a perfect spot to rest and have a snack before returning the same way you came.

Araucaria Falls (3.6kms return) is a Class 4 track that takes you through rainforest to the base of the falls. Access to this walk is along Lookout Road.

Sylvesters Lookout (940m return) is a short and beautiful Class 3 track that can be accessed from Lookout Road. The walk takes you to a spectacular lookout.

Mount Castle Lookout (960m return) is another short, beautiful Class 3 track that can be accessed from Lookout Road. Walk through rainforest and be rewarded with amazing views below.

Winder Track (12 kms return) is a Class 4 track that goes out-and-back from the end of Lookout Road. This track is vehicle-width leading you through the forest to ‘the winder’ which was used in the bygone days of logging and timber cutting in the area. Although listed as a Class 4 track, the walk undulates fairly gently and does not generally have much in the way of obstacles. At the start of the walk keep an eye open on your right for views across the valley.

The art of not-bushwalking

If you’re not feeling up to the challenge of bushwalking in Goomburra, or maybe you have young children to care for, simply have a wander or a quiet sit-down in the campgrounds or picnic area. There’s always so much to see right on the edge of the forest, with birds flitting in and out, echidnas, wallabies and kangaroos, reptiles, and frogs and other water-based creatures along the creek. Take a book or some binoculars or a pack of cards and enjoy the peaceful surrounds as you reconnect with the natural world around you.

Things to watch out for

There are the usual things to watch out for whilst bushwalking in Goomburra including snakes, ticks, leeches, flies and mosquitoes. You may also see some stinging trees depending where you walk, so be careful not to touch these. Check the parks site for ‘alerts’ of bushfires and park closures. As always the recommendation is to be prepared with first aid knowledge, a snake bandage, sun and insect protection, wear long sleeves and trousers, slip on a hat, and take plenty of water with you as it can be quite hot and humid on the walks. Let someone else know where you are planning to go and let them know when you’ve returned so they don’t unnecessarily send out a search party. Mobile service is very poor throughout the area.     

It’s time to stop dreaming and start bushwalking in Goomburra!

bushwalkingSo….. enough reading and dreaming about it! It’s time to get organised and get out there for real!

WHICH TRACK WILL YOU BE BUSHWALKING IN GOOMBURRA?

Walking Track Classifications

This article refers to the Australian Standard for classifying the level of difficulty of walking tracks. The Goomburra Section of Main Range National Park has Class 3 and 4 walking tracks which are defined below:

Class 3 Walking Tracks

  • Well-defined, distinct tracks, variable in width. Muddy sections, steep grades and steps may be encountered. Some exposed roots and rocks.
  • All junctions signposted and may include interpretive signs.
  • May be partially overgrown; hazards such as fallen trees and rockfalls may be present.
  • No formed creek crossings; cliff edges and lookouts generally not fenced; appropriate caution required.
  • Reasonable level of fitness required and ankle-supporting footwear recommended.

Class 4 Walking Tracks

  • Distinct tracks, surface likely to be rough with exposed roots and rocks.
  • All junctions signposted. Markers may be used where necessary (e.g. at creek crossings).
  • Variable in width; muddy sections, steep grades and extensive steps likely to be encountered.
  • May be overgrown; hazards such as fallen trees and rockfalls likely to be present.
  • No formed creek crossings; no fences on cliff edges or lookouts; high level of caution required.
  • Moderate fitness level and ankle-supporting footwear strongly recommended.
Daisy Spoke

Discovering mountain biking as life’s ultimate parallel universe in her middle age, Kathryn Walton shares information and reflections in ‘Daisy Spoke’ that inform, inspire and empower women to a healthy and active lifestyle.